Kicking Out

“I don’t know what the future holds — but I do know who holds the future.“ ― John Wooden (quoting his father) Today, kicking out is somewhat of a lost art in surfing. It’s not often I see a surfer cleanly exit the wave they are riding while going over the backside to...

The Future Is Secure

“No time is lost waiting on God.” ― Amish Proverb These are gnarly times! This reminds me of 1969 when Richard Nixon became the 37th U.S. president and set up his “Western White House” at La Casa Pacifica overlooking one of Southern California’s top surfing spots,...

Surfing in Heaven (Part II)

“I submit this imperfect sketch of a most perfect vision.” Rebecca Ruter Springer (from Intra Muros, “My Dream of Heaven”) “Cowabunga dudes, let’s go surfing!” I see a long strand of glittering white sand several hundred feet wide extending into the horizon. Perfect...

The Power of Prayer

“When we work, we work, but when we pray, God works.” Bill Hybels To a young surf grom growing up just a few blocks from the beach in Corona del Mar in the 1960’s (see Corona del Mar and Growing Up), Bruce Brown’s epic surf movie “The Endless Summer” had a deep-rooted...