Kicking Out

“I don’t know what the future holds — but I do know who holds the future.“ ― John Wooden (quoting his father) Today, kicking out is somewhat of a lost art in surfing. It’s not often I see a surfer cleanly exit the wave they are riding while going over the backside to...

“A Lotta Shit …”

“Age is an issue of mind over matter. If you don’t mind, it doesn’t matter” Mark Twain Like the marathon, life can have its challenges as you enter the second half. A good comparison is my 1970s vintage Infinity surfboard. It now requires extra resin and fiberglass...

Marathon Faith

“Be faithful, and leave the results to God.” Amish Proverb In between surf sessions, I love to run. The physical joy and mental relief running has provided me over the years is immeasurable. Going out on a run provides the perfect sanctuary. My Silicon Valley career...

HODADS (the movie)

This movie was all about being stoked with good friends, sharing some of our most precious times together, and enjoying God’s creation. There are two parts to HODADS (the movie): Part I – HODADS (surfing): 10:40 Part II – HODADS (surf stories): 12:50 Enjoy! Note: The...